Saturday, 21 June 2014

Gellert Baths

 
 

On our last day in Budapest we decided to cross Szabadsag hid (Liberty bridge)  and pay our second visit to Buda.




 
The bridge affords great views across the river
 
 
 
 

 
this is the closest we got to the Cave Church as we did not have time to visit
 
 


 

 
We didn't have much time, just enough to have a look at Gellert baths and hotel. An Art Nouveau building it opened in 1918 and was commandeered as staff headquarters by the Reds, and the Romanian army at different times in its history. During the 1930s and 1940s the hotel's balls were the highlight of Budapest's social calendar, when debutantes danced on a glass floor laid over its pool.
 
 
 


It has a magnificent grand entrance





looking closer





the whole building is a gem.




 
A look at that bridge again before entering the building
 

 
 

 
and a closer look at the church. 
 
  
 
 

Great wrought iron entrance as one would expect from Budapest by now,





and in we went.






A closer look at that magnificent ceiling




 
The main hall with the baths on the right, but we were not allowed to go in there unless swimming
 

 
 


beautiful floor, grand statues, stained glass, magnificent ceiling





a closer look at one of the statues and the majolica tiles behind it




 
gorgeous stained glass.
 
 
 

Friday, 20 June 2014

Dohany utca Synagogue, Budapest

 
 

Dohany utca Synagogue in the Erzsebetvaros district of Budapest, is Europe's largest synagogue and the second biggest in the world after the Temple of Emmanuel in New York, with 3600 seats and a total capacity for over 5000 worshipers.




 
Designed by Ludwig Forster, the building epitomises the so-called Byzantine-Moorish style that was popular in the 1850s. It was restored in the 1990s.
 
 
 
 
 
The interior was designed by Frigyes Feszl. It's quite magnificent: arabesques and Stars of David decorate the ceiling 
 
 
 


the balconies for female worshippers are surmounted by gilded arches
 
 
 

 
the floor is inset with eight-pointed stars
 
 
 


One of the lobbies





a closer look at the ceiling
 
 


 
 The museum is on the second floor
 
  
 
 
 
and the last room is dedicated to the Holocaust.
 
 
 
 


Chilling photographs and examples of anti-Semitic propaganda









Have we seen enough photos of the Holocaust? Has their message got through? Obviously not, as fascism is rearing its ugly head all over Europe again.....















 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

 
The cemetery beside the Synagogue only exists at this spot because the Nazis forbade Jews from being buried elsewhere - one of many calculated humiliations inflicted by the local SS commander Eichmann on the Jewish quarter which was by then a walled ghetto. Some 2281 Jews are interred beneath simple headstones, erected immediately after the Red Army's liberation of the ghetto on January 18, 1945.
 
 

 
 
 
The Raoul Wallenberg Memorial Garden is at the back of the Synagogue
 
 

 
 
 
The garden is named after the Swedish consul who saved 20,000 Jews during WWII. Armed with diplomatic status and money for bribing officials Wallenberg and his assistants plucked thousands from the cattle trucks and lodged them in 'safe houses', manoeuvring to buy time until the Russians arrived. He was last seen alive the day before the Red Army liberated the ghetto: arrested by the Soviets on suspicion of espionage, he died in the Gulag.
 
 

 
 
 
Glass panels by Klara Szilard
 
 
 
 
Names, names, names. The garden is full of plaques of the names of those who were killed
 
 

 
 
 
The park's centrepiece is the Holocaust Memorial by Imre Varga, shaped like a weeping willow, each leaf engraved with the names of a family killed by the Nazis.
 
 
 
 

 
it's very beautiful and very moving
 
 
 

 
Also, in the garden
 
 
 
 

looking closer





and closer.



 
Also in the garden, the Heroes' Temple, erected in 1929-31 in honour of the 10,000 Jewish soldiers who died fighting for Hungary during WWI. These days it serves as a synagogue for everyday use.
 
 
The Memorial Garden is a very moving place, as is the story of Raoul Wallenberg himself.
 
 
 

 
As we were walking towards the metro, we came upon this wonderful Art Nouveau building
 
 
 

 
The experience of the Museum, the Memorial Garden and then coming across such a beautiful building, this contrast, somehow seemed to encapsulate our experience of Budapest as a whole - the people of Hungary suffered so much, in so many different ways, by so many different hands during the 20th century and it all happened in the middle of so much beauty...
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thursday, 19 June 2014

Museum of Fine Arts, Budapest - the permanent collection

 
 

Museum of Fine Arts, Budapest. We enjoyed our visit to the Museum: there was a Toulouse Lautrec exhibition which was fun, the 20th century collection was very interesting, and I spent a long time looking for Jael and Sisera by Artemisia Gentileshi which I knew was part of their permanent collection and I was very keen to see it. So, not much time to have a look at the rest of their collection, but here is a very small sample:



 
Paul Gauguin, The Black Pigs, 1891
 

 
 

 
Claude Monet, Breakwater at Trouville, Low Tide, 1870
 


 
 


Pierre Bonnard, Dining Room at Grand-Lemps, 1899




 
Gustave Courbet, The Spring in Fouras (A Painter with his Model), 1863
 
  
 

 
Gustave Courbet, The Blonay Castle, 1875
 
 
 
 


Pieter Bruegel the Elder, The Sermon of Saint John the Baptist





 
Rembrandt Van Rijn, Scholar at a Table with Books and Candlestick, 1642
 
 
 


Rembrandt Van Rijn, Joseph's Dream, 1650s




 
Jan Jansz Van der Velde, Still Life with an Orange and Glasses, 1651
 
 
 
 

 
Pieter de Hooch, A Woman Reading a Letter by Window, 1664