Friday, 11 April 2025

Lake Vouliagmeni






I have written quite a few times about the lake. I will however, provide some information that I have given before again, for people who don't necessarily want to go to the links I will provide later in this post.

Lake Vouliagmeni (Sunken Lake) is a small brackish-water lake fed by underground currents seeping through the mass of Mount Hymettus but it is also supplied with warm seawater (28-35oC) via an underground channel spreading through a network of flooded caves. Consequently, the water temperature never drops below 18oC (usually ranges around 22-25oC). Furthermore, a freshwater spring reduces its salinity. These are quite unique environmental conditions.



The lagoon formed about 2,000 years ago. It was once a large cavern that collapsed following an earthquake. The outline of the cavern roof can be clearly seen from a distance as you can see from this photograph that was taken from across the bay.



The lake continues deep inside the mountain in an underwater cave never fully explored, as its end seems impossible to trace even by employing sonar detection. Many underwater expeditions have been carried out in order to chart it, a number amateur divers have drowned while trying to explore, as have three professional ones.

Because of its constant warm water temperature and its rich content of various minerals, the lake functions as a spa since the end of the 19th century. It also hosts the only existing population of species of sea anemone, Paranemonia Vouliagmeniensis.




It had been a while since I had come here, so it was very exciting walking down the path at the entrance




First glimpse of the lake from the path




A cave. I used to love swimming towards and under it, but they have cordoned it off now - they are constantly worried about people injuring themselves or worse





Looking right as we walked down the path, a tunnel of water - this could be part of the tunnel that feeds from the sea which is indeed on our right




We reached the car park




and here it is, a few people swimming







It's wonderful swimming here, surrounded by these majestic collapsed rocks




The lounging, sitting area. This is as far as we got in relation to the lake. We had come here to have lunch and not to swim. As the entrance fee is 17 euros (ouch!) for swimming, we decided we did not want to pay it just for a better look, so we moved on to the bar area.







We did want to sit in the sun, but that would have meant no views of the lake




so we sat in the shaded area




that provided some views of the lake 









On the edge there is a sign that gives you daily information about the lake. When I took this photograph the time was 13:42, the temperature was 16oC and the water temperature was 22oC.




While we ate I was watching this woman who looked to be in her middle 80s doing some exercises after her swim. And then she did this. Wow! Such level of fitness. Amazing.




I would finally like to share three links. The first one which you can see here was written while I was reading A Lacuna by Barbara Kingsolver and I realised that the lake is a lacuna. In the post I juxtapose my impressions of the lake with quotes from this wonderful novel.  This post also provides the best and most comprehensive pictures of the lake.

The second link which you can see here is about an evening we spent at the lake.

The third link, here , is about a play we saw that was performed in a smaller lake, just behind this one, a truly enchanted evening.


Tuesday, 8 April 2025

Vouliagmeni




A few days before leaving Greece to return to the UK we decided to visit Vouliagmeni (meaning 'sunken'), a seaside suburb which is named after Lake Vouliagmeni. The suburb sits on the southwestern foot of the Hymettus mountain range. It's one of the most prestigious Athenian suburbs and has some of the highest real estate prices in the Balkans.

We started with the western half of the suburb, located between the main avenue that bisects the area and the sea. This area is covered with pine trees and consists of two peninsulas, Megalo and Mikro Kavouri (Big Crab and Little Crab) that feature sandy and pebble beaches in between rocky shores. For this visit we concentrated on Mikro Kavouri and started walking intending to get to its furthest point.




The fire station on our right




and a series of luxury apartment buildings.





A rounded building being built - will it be apartments?




On our left Vouliagmeni pay beach - we used to come here a lot, but have not been for a few years - this is something I intend to remedy as it's lovely swimming here




Perched above the pay beach, Oceanis, a cafeteria, bar and restaurant - again, we used to love coming here - the views of the bay are spectacular. You can read about an evening we spent there here




alas, it's closed down now - don't know why




and this is where we used to sit - you can see how good the views are




We continued on our way




We could see an icon across the road, so went to investigate




It's a Church Orphanage




and this road, inside the gates, leads to it, but we did not go any further




but continued on our way





Until we got to the bit that is called Laimos (Neck) - it's a narrow, sandy isthmus, flanked by a public, 'free', beach on one side and the Astir Palace beach, the fancy beach on the other side. Had I stood on the middle of the road I would have been able to take a photograph which would show the sea on other side of the Laimos, but I did not think of it at the time. Anyway, it's that narrow.




So, on our left the free beach




and views of another Peninsula and the road that eventually leads to Sounion




as well as views of the end of Mikro Kavouri and the Nautical Club area





and on the other side of the Laimos, Astir Palace Beach, the fancy, exclusive beach (entry to the beach costs 20 euros on weekdays and 30 on weekends, as opposed to 5 and 10 respectively on the pay beach which we saw earlier and which we used to go to)





As the beach had not opened for the summer yet, and no entry fee, we decided to go in and have a look









That's the whole area of it - small and exclusive




and it's in the midst of it all... antiquities




The Temple of Apollo Zoster. It was accidentally discovered by children of the Vouliagmeni Orphanage who during their play on the beach, near some remains of walls, found marble bases, column drums and part of an inscription, which mentioned the sanctuary of Apollo Zoster. 



According to legend, when Leto was about to give birth to Apollo and Artenis, she fled writhing in pain to Delos. During her flight she discarded her girdle, which fell on the Mikro Kavouri peninsula. When her son, the god Apollo was born, he picked up the discarded girdle and girdled himself in honour of his mother, and was hence named Zoster (girdle).




We left Astir Beach and continued on our way




From here we could see the collapse in the rock across the bay, where the lake is, and also the point where the Nautical Club is situated




The entrance and car park of the Nautical Club




and a bit further along




looking down, the Nautical Club. The Club admits members and their guests and operates a marina; a waterskiing school; junior and Olympic competition sailing boats and facilities; an open-air, heated swiming pool; memebers' indoor and outdoor lounges; a gym and a restaurant.




A friend of my sister's is a member and we used to come here with her some times. This is the beach she favoured, and I used to enjoy coming here




You can see a post I wrote on this here




We wanted to walk further and maybe get to the marina in the photograph, but our aim was to go to the lake, so we turned around




some action figures stuck to the fence here




good views of Mount Hymettus during our descent




two canooists on the beach




what I did not mention is that the waters here are very shallow for quite a long way, as you can see from this man here




We followed the road we had walked on earlier




and arrived at Athinas Avenue, this gorgeous church across the road from us




a sculpture by Kostis Georgiou on our side of the road







Athinas Avenue is lined with palm trees. It starts from Athens city centre as Vouliagmenis Avenue, turns into Athinas Avenue once it reaches the seashore, and runs parallel to it until Sounion.



The entrance to the pay beach on our right








and a bit further on, we could see the area where we had come from, as well as the pay beach from a different angle




and we continued...








The Nautical Club across the water







Two tavernas here, one after the other






The Winter Swimmers' Club



At this point, we corssed the road, and here it is




Lake Vouliagmeni (Sunken Lake), a very rare geological formation, a lacuna. But, this will be the subject of another post.