Tuesday, 25 November 2014

Walking around Manchester

 
We spent three very enjoyable days in Manchester last week. It was our first time in the city and it was a place I'd always wanted to visit. My first real knowledge of Manchester came through the novels of Elizabeth Gaskell who described the appalling conditions of the working class when the city was a prosperous industrial town, a prosperity that was built on the hard labour of working people. Her novels depict working class life and the people involved in textile manufacturing. She described the awful working conditions, the unsafe machinery in the mills, the extremely low wages paid for hard work, the poor living conditions - all heralding a new form of urban existence and a new structure of social relations. She showed the contrast between the lives of the working people and those of the wealthy manufacturers. During that time Friedrich Engels did the same, but the solutions he proposed were totally different.
 
All the wealth that was created primarily by cotton led to a boom in related industries including banking and industrial engineering to service the textile mills. The whole of the landscape of the area changed. Further wealth was generated through the transatlantic slave trade and is reflected in the grand buildings especially in and around Mosley Street, Piccadilly and Portland Street. Some of this wealth benefited the public, as philanthropists donated money and artworks to local cultural institutions such as Manchester Art Gallery, and the Whitworth Art Gallery.
 
 
 

 
 
Our hotel was in Piccadilly Gardens, and this was the view from the hotel bar where we stopped for a drink during our first night.
 

 
 

 
Most cities have big wheels nowadays, but they're still a lot of fun
 
 
 

 

 
Close to the Piccadilly area this gorgeous Art Deco building, the Rylands building, dominates.  Grade II listed, it was originally built as a warehouse by the Rylands textile company and was designed by Fairhursts architects.




 
It's clad in Portland stone and features a decorative corner tower and eclectic 'zig zag' window lintels. The area was known for its markets and textile warehouses.
 
 
 
 
 
Another wonderful building in the same area is the one that houses Primark today. It was built in 1877, designed by architects Horton and Bridgford and was built in a French Renaissance style with a grand corner tower which has now been removed.
 

 
 

 
We ate in Chinatown during our first evening
 
 



and the Chinese Arch looked as good in daylight.






 We liked the decoration on this building in the Northern Quarter




and we could not work out what this contraption was which was just in front of it - a remnant of Manchester's industrial past maybe?
 
 
 
 
 
Facing onto St Peter's Square is the Midland hotel which was designed by Charles Trubshaw in an Edwardian Baroque style, and was built to serve Manchester Central railway station. It's a Grande II listed building.
 
 
 

 
 
The hotel had a 1,000-seat purpose-built theatre where opera and drama performances were staged, and a roof terrace where a string quartet performed. It was allegedly coveted by Adolf Hitler as a possible Nazi headquarters in Britain.
 
 
 

 
Manchester has some wonderful buildings

 
 
 


and we thoroughly enjoyed walking around.



 
This is part of the City Council building.
 
 


It was a sunny day and that helped enormously




 
the buildings seemed to glow. 
 
 


 
Through doing this blog I've realised that I have a penchant for corner buildings
 
 
 

 
as I seem to keep photographing them
 
 
 

 
We found another gorgeous Art Deco building on Deansgate, designed by J.S. Beaumont in 1939.
 
 
 


Here's another one, in a completely different style




 
 
 
 

 
I could not find any information on this one, but liked the form and the combination of pink and gold 
 
  
 

 
and I loved this one, but again, could not find out anything about it
 
 
 

 
We thought these two timber-clad buildings were extraordinary. 
 
 
 


The pub was packed during the day





and at night too.





Reminiscent of the Giant's Causeway? We thought so. The water
 
 
 

 
 
was 'fed' from here





The Urbis in Cathedral Gardens. Wow! Definitely my favourite building in the centre of the city. A pity about all the writing on the façade - it spoils its clean lines.
 
 
 
 

Designed by Ian Simpson Architects, it was completed in 2002.
 
 

 
 


The exterior consists of approximately 2,200 glass panes arranged in horizontal strips. The building has six storeys and a distinctive sloping form.






The entrance
 
 
 


 
Another interesting water feature in the same area
 





Art Nouveau on Bridge Street





 
 
 
 
Manchester Art Gallery on Princess Street.
 
 
 

Saturday, 22 November 2014

Ai Weiwei at Blenheim Palace




Ai Weiwei at Blenheim Palace.





Unable to leave China since his imprisonment in 2011 due to his political activism, Weiwei had to use 3D models and videos of Blenheim Palace to position his 50 works of art. Nothing in the show is labelled, so it's up to the viewer to search out the Weiweis among the palace's collection of Chinese porcelain and antique furniture. We did in fact miss the marble surveillance camera which I am sorry about.

The show is a combination of old and new, East and West, good taste with bad, high culture and low, traditional art and conceptual, and a mix of periods: juxtapositions that amuse and make you think. The tapestries, paintings and furnishings are interrupted by Weiwei's art, subverting this bastion of traditionalism. All rules are broken and there is no respect for authority. At times his art seems to mock its surroundings.




 
Pillar, 2007
 
 
 


looking closer



 
Chandelier, 2002
 
This 17ft glass crystal chandelier hangs from the opulent  baroque ceiling of the great hall. A signifier for conspicuous consumption it speaks not just for the opulence of Blenheim palace but also for the rise of a status-conscious wealthy class in communist China.
 
 
 
 
 
Amongst the pillars holding classic busts in the North corridor Weiwei has placed his own pillars which blend with the surroundings unless you look closely
 
 
 


Cao, 2014





looking closer





Mask, 2013




 
Slanted Table, 1997
 
In the middle of a small anteroom full of photographs of Winston Churchill stands the 'altered'  Qing dynasty table.
 
 

 
 

Handcuffs, 2012 and Hanging Man in Porcelain, 2009





The handcuffs, made of valuable huali wood, are placed on Churchill's bed.





Above the bed, a profile of Marcel Duchamp made out of a wire coat hanger.





Ruyi, 2006




Watermelon, 2006





Beneath a showcase of greetings cards that Churchill made, is Watermelon


 



Han Dynasty Vase with Coca-Cola and Caonima Logo, 2014





The vase is a Han dynasty one. 




 
Soft Ground, 2014



 


looking closer 


 

 
Owl House, 2010
 

 
 


looking closer
 
 
  
 
 
Sunflower Seeds Stool, 2014
 
 
 


 
looking closer
 
 
 

 
Han Dynasty Vases in Auto Paints, 2014
 
 
 


Weiwei covered these Han dynasty (202 BC to 220 AD) vases with car paint




 
He Xie, 2012
 
 
 

 
2,300 hand-painted porcelain crabs. The installation refers on censorship, playing on the similar-sounding 'river crab' and 'harmonious', part of a Chinese Communist slogan.
 




Grapes, 2011





looking closer




 
Circle of Animals, 2010
 
 

 

 
Inspired by the fountain sculptures in the Summer Palace in Beijing that were torched and looted in 1860 by French and British soldiers, Circle of Animals is a collection of gold-plated Zodiac animals.  The regal yet cartoonish animal heads are a reminder that though the Cultural Revolution destroyed much of China's artistic heritage, the West is by no means blameless.
 
 
 

 
one more view
 
 
 

 
Marble Chair, 2008
 
 
 

 
looking closer
 
 
 

 
Map of China, 2009
 
 
 


Bowl of Pearls, 2006




 
250kg of freshwater pearls in a giant rice bowl
 



 
Divina Proportione, 2006
 
 
 

 
looking closer
 
 
 

 
there were three of those in the Long Library which was designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor 
 
 
 

 
Study of Perspective, 1995-2011
 
 
 

 
Also in the Long Library, Weiwei's 40 images from the extensive series 'Study of Perspective', dating back to the 1990s - blown up snapshots of the artist sticking his middle finger up at symbols of influence, from Big Ben, to St Paul's, Tate Modern to a super-yacht. Is he metaphorically giving the finger to Blenheim itself? Weiwei is not just a great artist, but has also never been afraid of taking on the powerful.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


 

 

 
The bridge and the Column of Victory were our view as we left the palace
 
 
 


we walked through the arched passageway




 
and we headed towards the car park with a different view of the bridge on our left.
 
 
 
 
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