Plaza Mayor

Plaza Mayor is the beating heart of the city and the grand stage for so many of its most important historical events: the beatification of San Isidro Labrador (St Isidore the Farm Labourer), Madrid's patron saint. Thereafter, it was as if all that was controversial about Spain took place in this square. Bullfights, often in celebration of royal weddings or births were a recurring theme until 1878. Far more notorious were the autos-da-fe (the ritual condemnations of heretics during the Spanish Inquisition from the 15th to 19th centuries), followed by executions - burnings at the stake and deaths by garrotte on the north side of the square, hangings to the south.

Not all the plaza's activities were grand events, and just as it is now surrounded by shops, it was once filled with food vendors. In 1673, King Carlos II issued an edict allowing the vendors to raise tarpaulins above their stalls to protect their wares and themselves from the refuse and raw sewage that people habitually tossed out of the windows above. 

Arches all around the square with gorgeous vaulted ceilings

and side streets leading out of the square,  filled with cafes and restaurants too

Providing a backdrop for the plaza is the 17th century Real Casa de la Panaderia (Royal Bakery). The present frescoes date to just 1992 and are the work of artist Carlos Franco, who chose images from the signs of the zodiac and gods.  The building now houses the city's main tourist office.

Numerous cafes and restaurants are situated all around the plaza - it's nice sitting here and watching the world go by

One day we saw a stage being erected in the middle of the square

and the next day is was finished - the week- long celebrations for San Isidro 

These bears are to be found all over the city

The first concert was on Friday night

The whole of the plaza was packed with people who were singing along

Antonio Jose. It was very good and we stayed until the end of the concert

On the Saturday night it was classical music - opera. There was some seating for a select few

We were leaving on Sunday but we had an hour before heading for the airport so, after packing we thought we would walk to the plaza (a ten minute walk from our hotel). There was a flea market under the arches

small objects - a lot of coins, and then bits and pieces

jewellery

Bottle tops? People collect bottle tops?