El Greco - The Concert of the Angels

El Greco (Domenicos Theotokopoulos), The Concert of the Angels, 1608, (oil on canvas) at the National Gallery, Athens.

This strange, yet 'modern' painting was designed to hang high above the head of the viewer, this is how it hangs in the National Gallery, and it was hard to photograph.

This is a striking composition that brings together a group of angels who are making music. The angels have no wings and their robes sway with movement. Their sinuous forms, from the figures earnestly playing their instruments to those devotedly focusing on the sheet music, epitomise the elongation and exaggerated movements typical of the Mannerist style. Brilliant hues of red and green contrast with the soft, ethereal skin tones. The use of light is subtle but effective, casting gentle shadows and highlights that give form and volume to the angelic musicians. The expressions of the angels are serene and concentrated suggesting a divine focus and purpose in their music-making.

El Greco was born in Crete, Greece, moved to Italy and studied under Titan before moving to Spain where he stayed until the end of his life. His unique style developed into a fusion of Byzantine art, that of the Renaissance and Mannerism.

 

From Syntagma to Psirri

On March the 8th we decided we wanted to go to Psirri as it's an area we had not visited for a while. We hoped that the centre of Athens would be 'open' as quite a few of demonstrations and rallies were planned for that day, not only for International Women's Day, but also another of the almost daily demonstrations against the right-wing government whose inefficiency and lack of care caused the Tempi railway disaster, and who then, went on to cover up - what exactly we do not know, but the day after the disaster they cleaned up the area and cemented over it. It does not take a lot to deduce that some sort of cover-up has taken place. 

There was considerable police presence around Syntagma which is where the bus dropped us off and we were told that later, the centre would be indeed closed.

Almost immediately we came upon a rally for International Women's Day - we knew that there was one in Klauthmonos Square, so this was a second one

We stayed for a while to show our support

and then started walking down Ermou Street, the main shopping street in Athens, a bit like Oxford Street in London

a sand sculpture in the process of being made

Busking - Latin American music

lots of people out, shopping, or just wandering around

a koulouri seller

more buskers

roast chestnuts and corn on the cob

coconut products being sold

The Byzantine church of Kapnikarea, two buskers in front of it, and this is where Ermou Street changes - the nature of the shops changes and consequently the whole atmosphere

This woman was offering to take an old fashioned photograph of us, and I asked her if I could take one of her instead - she readily agreed

it was a Saturday, so, so much going on

lots of people sitting out on Aiolou Street, which cuts across Ermou

we continued on Ermou, and we could see the Acropolis on our left

We reached Monastiraki square, which was buzzing with people - the Acropolis in the distance

the old mosque, which is a museum nowadays

a salepi seller - you don't many of those around anymore. Salepi is made from the flour obtained from the orchis mascula, a purple orchid.  When mixed with water, the flour turns into a thick liquid which is meant to have healing properties for those suffering from asthma, a cough and stomach ache.

More buskers

and now we are walking a completely different Ermou Street

with cafes and restaurants

and lots of second hand shops, where, if one is lucky, one might find an antique

a novel way of selling rugs

The narrow lanes on our left lead to the flea market, which explains the abundance of second-hand shops in the area

Caryatids in tears - another iNO mural

And now we had finally arrived at the turning for Psirri, and again, a completely different vibe

Psirri was known as a haven for the revolutionaries during the War of Independence against the Turks. Following the liberation of Greece from the Turkish occupation in 1833, several veteran freedom fighters settled here. They opened cottage industries and workshops, which gave the area a distinctive character. The central square in Psirri is called 'Heroes Square' because the streets leading to it carry names of heroes of the Independence War.

Psirri has always had a reputation of being anti-establishment. From the very beginning of the modern Greek State people from the provinces and especially from the island of Naxos, came to the area.

Psirri was also known for a very odd sport that the working class indulged in. They would have 'stone wars'. At a prearranged time men from Psirri would meet with men from Thissio, Metaxourgeio, or Petralona and insult each other until the rocks began flying. There were cheering spectators and those injured became neighbourhood heroes. This went on until the end of the 19th century.

Psirri was also part of the underworld of Athens: hash smokers, petty criminals and people who were generally discontent came to live here. They were called 'mangas'. In 1893 Prime Minister Harilaos Trikoupis founded a new combination of army-police to stamp out criminals in the area.

During the 20th century Psirri became an area of tavernas and a place where you would find the Remberica, a type of Greek music about love, exile, pain, poverty, heroin and hashish, the same songs you will hear in Psirri today. Today it's a neighbourhood known for its artisans, specialty stores, bars, tavernas with or without music, but also theatres, art, and antique shops. It's also one of the few neighbourhoods I know where one may sample international cuisine.

Los Gardenias, a Cuban restaurant

with two venues across from each other

a net across the street

and clothes hanging from lines uniting the two venues.

The Good Wolf, an old taverna which seems to be closed, maybe they only open in the evenings. Wares from the next-door junk shop all over the entrance

This taverna is called Let's go to Naxos. I took most of these photographs at around 11:00 and the tavernas were deserted. On our way back, after our lunch, as we were leaving the area, they were all packed. It's the same in the evenings - the whole area is full of life

the cafes were busy though

there were people waiting for a table at this one

Cuba Libre, another restaurant

Tsipouradiko, this taverna has been here for ever

and across the road, Tsipouradiko's garden - we thought about having lunch here, but ended up elsewhere instead

We continued on our way

and arrived, at Nikitas, 

which is by Agion Anargyron church

a shop selling Indian merchandise

You don't see this graffiti much anymore - Vasanizomai: it used to be all over Athens during the economic recession, it means 'I am being tortured'

It's such a lively, vibrant area

Loved this: This gallery is not genocide friendly, I went in and told the owner and we had a nice chat

I liked this clock

In the end we decided to go back to Nikitas for lunch

The food is delicious - we will certainly go back there, it's also unbelievably good value

We sat across the road, in front of the church. It's just as well we went when we did because later, there were continuous queues of people waiting for a table - it's obviously a very popular place.

After a delicious lunch we walked past this hemp seed store

past the Let's go to Naxos taverna which was packed, as were all of the tavernas, and made our way to the bus stop and home.