Sunday 25 September 2022

Artemonas and Agia Anna in Sifnos

Artemonas is the largest village in Sifnos. Its name comes from the workship of the goddess Artemis in antiquity. The village is quite different to the rest of Sifnos, its past properity reflected in the quality of the houses.

One early evening we took the bus to Artemonas which deposited us in the square. We wanted to go to the small settlement of Agia Anna because I wanted to look at two ceramics workshops and then we were going to spend the evening in Artemonas. 


In order to get to Aghia Anna we took the peripheral road outside the village

The views were spectacular and included other villages and the sea in the distance

olive trees all around us

We walked past the Sifnos Cultural Centre who were responsible for organisonh the folk dance festival

It was an uphill walk and as the higher we climbed up, the more spectacular the views

Soon enough we could see the windmills of Aghia Anna

one of which has been converted into a home

and from here we could see the terraced fields

Right by the entrance to the settlement Antonis Kalogirou' pottery workshop and shop are situated. We spent quite a while here

Then, following Mr Kalogirou's directions we walked through the settlement 

and without any trouble, found the second workshop, Lebesis ceramics where we bought quite a few things, not for ourselves as we own a few of their functional pieces, but as presents for friends.

We were then given directions on how to reach Artemonas without having to take the peripheral road again. It was a wonderful walk, and all of it, downhill

Narrow alleyways

well-tended houses

white houses

ceramic chimneys from the island's workshops.

We reached the church of Agia Anna

had a look inside

At some point around here, we had left Agia Anna and had entered Artemonas, but I have no idea exactly where

antiques and folk art

a taverna

a shop selling ceramics

another taverna

another church

now we were certain we were in Artemonas because some great houses, or mansions as they call them here, started appearing

another church

a bar

We came across four girls in all, who paint pebbles and then sell them for two euros each - we bought some from the girls Apollonia, but just chatted to this one: one can have only so many painted pebbles

another mansion

a bar

the primary school

another girl selling her art

We had come full circle and reached the square

and ended up at Liotrivi, a taverna in the middle of the square, where the food was very good, and the service excellent. 

The place was empty when we arrived at around 8:30 but by 10:00 it was packed, and there were queues of people waiting for an empty table. Hardly any of them were tourists.

Sitting here made us realise how different Artemonas is to the rest of the island: there are hardly any tourists, real village life, where locals congregate in the square to exchange news and be seen

and children play unaccompanied.

These two little girls had such fun together!

During our second visit we walked around a different area of the village, a residential area

I loved the arches in this house

We walked down this path

Past the Citizens' Information Centre

what a lovely entrance

and another that leads straight on to the balcony

this one leads on to a courtyard

We retraced our steps and walked up to the street we had taken last time

great sky

We entered this gallery that showed work by Nikolas Houtos

He also paints religious icons

I found his modern take on religious icons quite interesting

and here's another one.

After wondering around for quite a while we went to Liotrivi for another lovely meal.

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