The Rotunda in Thessaloniki ...and more

On that particular day, we had art (the Russian Avant-Garde) in the morning and then archaeological sites in the afternoon.

The Arch of Galerius or Kamara, stands on what is now the intersection of Egnatia and D. Gounari streets. It was built in the 4th century AD and is an outstanding example of early Byzantine art and architecture. Galerius, a 4th century Roman emperor, commissioned the arch as part of an imperial precinct linked to his Thessaloniki palace. At some point, the knowledge of why the arch was constructed and who it was dedicated to was lost.

The arch was an octopylon (eight-pillar gateway) forming a triple arch that was built of a rubble masonry core, faced first with brick and then with marble panels with sculptural relief. Only three of the eight pillars have survived.

Two of the pillars retain their sculpted marble slabs, which depict the wars of Galerius against the Sassnids in broadly panegyric terms.

125 metres away from the Arch stands the Rotunda

Like the Arch, the Rotunda is also a 4th century AD monument and an example of early Byzantine art and architecture. The Rotunda was one of the earliest Christian monuments in the Eastern Roman Empire. It has gone through multiple periods of use and modification as a mausoleum, a Christian basilica, a Muslim mosque, and again a Christian church (and archaeological site). A minaret is preserved from its use as a mosque and ancient remains are displayed on its southern site.

The building was used as a church for over 1,200 years until the city was occupied by the Ottomans. In 1590 it was converted into a mosque, and the minaret was added to the sturcture. It was used as a mosque until 1912, when the Greeks liberated the city. The Rotunda is the oldest of Thessaloniki's churches.

We walked through the arched gate

into the grounds

It's a circular, centrally-planned structure with a masonry core and is topped by a dome. It has a diameter of 24.5 m. Its walls are more than 6m thick, which is why is has withstood Thessaloniki's earthquaes, The walls are interrupted by eight rectangular bays, with the west bay forming the entrance. A brick dome, 30m high, crowns the cylindrical structure.

The cupola and barrel vaults were originally entirely covered in mosaics, many of which are now lost.

I loved being in that space. Unlike other archaeological monuments where I go out of intellectual interest, this was different - I walked around and felt at peace. I just loved it.

We went outside to have a look at the archaeological excavations where there are visible architectural building remains associated with the Rotunda's conversion to a Christian church.

and then walked around to the minaret.

I guess this is where the Muslim faithful would wash before entering the Rotunda.

We left the Rotunda and a few metres down, in the middle of a busy street

sits the third of these monumental structures which were connected by a road that run through the arch. 

 

The Palace of Galerius was built to accomodate the emperor and his court during their temporary stay in Thessaloniki. It comprised a courtyard, baths, living quarters and halls of reception.

It's a major site. We did not go in. I think we might have missed out on some great mosaics.

As we left the site, we looked behind us, and could see how how the sites are connected in a straight line.