Gracia in Barcelona

Gracia is one of the hippest, most cosmopolitan areas in Barcelona. It's intimate, close-packed streets and predominantly low-rise, Mediterranean architecture give it a distinct feel. Its old, one-way streets are organised around a series of plazas. The population is a mix of young professionals and artists and a growing elderly population. Catalan flags adorn many a Gracia window or terrace, symbols of the neighbourhood's fiercely pro-independence politics.

In this bohemian enclave of Catalan urban life there aren't many international brands or fast-food chains. Instead, small gourmet street food outposts are common; there are an array of ethnic cuisines, from Japanese to Greek. Ubiquitous as well are the bountiful small cafes that service classic Spanish tapas and Catalan specialties. Shopping abounds in funky independent shops selling stylish trinkets and vintage clothing. Talented artisans and artists can be found in the squares and in small ground-floor shops. Nightlife is dominated by Spanish cafe culture, with an abundance of small bars and restaurants. 

I said earlier that Catalan flags are to be seen all around the district. So are Palestinian flags.

They are everywhere.

We took the metro to get to Garcia. Unfortunately, very soon after getting to the district, I had my accident so we went back to the hotel. The next day we took the metro again, got off at a different station, and started walking towards Guell Park, another Gaudi masterpiece. I said walked, but climbed would be more appropriate.

It is so steep that there are escalators taking you further up

furthermore, it felt like every other building had a Palestinian flag on the balcony or window

And on we climbed

Note the ridged sidewalk so that people don't slip coming down this very steep road

Looking back and down from one of the escalators

the city spread out

the Sagrada Familia rising above the city

we had arrived at the edge of Guell Park and could see the roofs of the two gate houses from here

the entrance of the park - and like every day in Barcelona we were stunned by the number of people

after a long and extremely pleasant visit we left the park

and started the downhill trek to the centre of the district

grateful for the ridged pavement

As one would expect, the tourist shops in Barcelona are full of Gaudi knick knacks: in this one, even the shelves resemble the benches in Guell Park - it did make me laugh

A monastery

Here, you can see how steep it is: the escalator, and next to it the stairs painted with the Palestinian flag

We arrived at the metro station we had disembarked at the day before

turned left and we had almost reached our next destination

These individual benches are everywhere in Barcelona - I really like them

We had reached our destination, Casa Vincens, Gaudi's first commission. We spent a pleasant two hours in this wonderful house (post to follow)

When we left, we were desperate for some lunch and water, but were determined to do so at the Placa Diamant, so we started walking

We were now in the middle of the bohemian part of this district and it was very pleasant

lots of craft and quirky shops

narrow, pedestrianised streets

This is Carrer d'Asturies

gorgeous window

the area is known for its graffiti

Placa Diamant was very quiet when we arrived, but apparently it's not always like this

Placa del Diamant is famous for various reasons. One of them is because of the air raid shelter (Refugi Antiaeri de la Placa del Diamant) that is hidden beneath it. It is one of the largest  air-raid shelters ever built in  Barcelona. and it provided refuge during the Spanish Civil War. When Barcelona was heavily bombed by Franco's Nationalist forces and their allies, Nazi Germany and Fascist Italy, Gracia was particularly targeted for being an important industrial area.

Another reason why this square is famous is because one of the most iconic Catalan books was named after it. The Time of the Doves (also translated as The Pigeon Girl or In Diamond Square), is a novel written by exiled Catalan writer Merce Rodoreda. The novel has been translated into more than thirty languages and is regarded as one of the most important pieces of fiction in contemporary Catalan literature. It is also a staple of the curriculum in secondary school programmes across Catalonia.

Set in Barcelona during the Second Spanish Republic and the Spanish Civil War, the novel  pictures a young woman, Natalia, (nicknamed Colometa, the Pigeon Girl) who navigates life and love during the tumulteous times of the Spanish Civil War. The square becomes a symbol of her dreams and disappointments.

A statue, dedicated to Colometa stands in one corner of the square

Ready for a sit down and something to eat and drink, we went to - where else?-  Diamant.

A very good choice indeed - the food was good, with a strong Catalan atmosphere and the staff were exceptionally friendly. I was sorry that we did not have the chance to go again.

We left Diamant, and the square,





and took the metro back to our hotel. What we really wanted to do was explore this wonderful district, walk the streets and  go down to the underground tunnels of the air-raid shelter but it had been a very long day. We also wanted to come back and spend a whole day in this district, but there was so much else we wanted to do, and just did not have the time. We'll just have to come back to this wonderful city.