Wednesday 8 April 2015

Staying, eating and shopping in Galaxidi

We stayed here while we were in Galaxidi. The hotel was very basic but with some quirky touches

the views were stunning


particularly from the terrace. In the summer this is where breakfast is served but unfortunately not in winter or spring, and we were sorry about that. It was possible to sit here though 

and enjoy the views.

The evenings started with ouzos in one of the seafront bars (no photographs I'm afraid) and then we came here for our evening meal.

The food was so good, that we had all of our meals here. Our travelling companions had been to Galaxidi before, had sampled other places, and confirmed that the best food was to be found here. We kept very unorthodox hours: lunch after 4:00 and supper after 10:00 (sometimes even later) so that most of the time we were the only customers, something that suited us fine. In the evenings we sat inside where a log fire kept us warm.

There were other customers though:

the town's two geese visited often, knowing that food was on offer.

There were three swallows' nests above the entrance. The owners have installed these perches so that the birds can perch; so that the young when they first come out of the nest and are unstable can fall here and not the ground where theymight get hurt; and so that the birds' droppings don't fall on customers' food. Very thoughtful and a delight.

This made me think of Carel Fabritius' Goldfinch, except that this bird is free

We did not see the young, but both proud parents kept coming and going all the time.

This was a lovely little shop

a real Aladdin's cave.


Lots of shops selling traditional sweets, and this was our favourite

preparations for Easter

homemade jams

and glyka koutaliou - fruits in syrup.
On our last day, after our morning walk,  we sat in one of the two cafes in the photograph for a drink. Our travelling companions played backgammon but we just sat
and enjoyed the gorgeous views.


  1. Lovely, and sure to draw much needed tourism. Do people still eat glyka koutalio with their coffee? Or is it used as a kind of jam or compote these days? I still have my grandmother's koutalia for glyko, and used to love the whole process of her making peach glyko.

    1. It's a traditional, old-fashioned thing now, Olga. It's mainly people in villages who still make glyko koutaliou and eat it. Not many Athenians do, unless it's older people who have come from the villages.

      The woman who owned the taverna in Galaxidi made the most wonderful glyka. We were given some after each meal. They were absolutely delicious. My sister kept having strawberry, which she devoured, and I had mousmoula. The google translation says loquat) I had never had that before and it really was absolutely wonderful.

      The strawberries are in season at the moment, and they're cheap, so I thought I would make some - mainly because the ones at the taverna were so good (these people really do know how to cook). I have never made it before, looked up the recipe on google, and it looks much simpler than making jam, so I thought I would have a go.

    2. Sounds like fun. Your holiday sounds like a trip back in time!

    3. Going back in time is good, as long as it's not done too often or too much. It was a great break.