Sunday, 12 July 2026

La Macarena, Seville



La Macarena district is located in the north of Seville and it's one of the districts that is not overrun with tourists. We visited during our first full day in the city and did consequently get the wrong impression - we thought everywhere would be quiet like this. It has a very Spanish feel which made us want to visit again, which we did later in the week.




During our first day, we intended to explore Santa Cruz and the Cathedral area.  We started walking and arrived at this modern structure, the Metropol Parasol, known locally as Las Setas (The Mushrooms).




 A post will follow. 





We started exploring the Plaza de la Encarnacion which is where structure is situated 




and which is full of bars and restaurants




surrounded by beautiful buildings



 
Saw this narrow street which looked inviting, decided to explore it even though it was in the opposite direction of where we were headed,




Thought we'd go a little further, and that was that - our plans abandoned and we were exploring La Macarena.




Lots of cafes and restaurants with people sitting outside




small, artisan shops




tourist shops where flamenco merchandise dominates







I noticed this in Barcelona as well - lots of organic and alternative health products for sale




and hundreds of churches - everywhere











a lot of statues as you'd expect










Pictures of saints outside the churches




and these hay structures, which we decided must have been left over from Palm Sunday. This one outside the church, but lots of buildings had them draped over balconies


 

Carrefour seems to be the main supermarket - I remember the one near our hotel in Barcelona was picketed every evening by pro-Palestine, anti-genocide supporters because of the supermarket's connections with Israel




We continued exploring Calle Feria, the main street for shopping and browsing in La Macarena










I went inside this ceramics shop. Note the name - almost everything in this city seems to have religious connotations




lots of old pots and tiles







There are very few new buildings in Seville - the city has preserved its traditional character




We got to Plaza de Montesion







another church











so many pictures of saints on people's balconies




a painting on a door




gorgeous architecture







another balcony with a Palm Sunday thingy













another church




We had arrived at the Calle Feria Market,




the main market of the city











lots of meat and ham




olives and pickles




bread and pastries







They sell everything




and the place gets transformed Sunday lunchtimes as you will see later




fresh fruit and veg




like everywhere in Spain, lots of ham and cured meats




delicious fruit




oh! the cakes










We wandered around the market for quite a while and then we continued on our way




We thought this would be another church so we turned into this little side street to explore,




but it's a housing development so we continued on Calle Feria




This explains how Seville has managed to keep its traditional character - buildings get gutted, the exterior is kept, and the interior is modernised








We turned left into Resolana




we were intrigued by this tower, we never managed to find out what it is




Wandered round Parque Cerando for a while








Arrived at this huge square where this bridge dominates




then turned into quieter streets




past this school













Went inside this building




where a two-week puppet festival was in progress













We moved on to




a wide avenue, Alameda de Hercules., the Tree-lined Avenue of Hercules.

Originally, the Alameda was a fragment of the eastermost branch of the Guadalquivir river. After it was cut off by a dam in 1383, it was developed and now is a key nightlife center of the city. It's has a vibrant and diverse atmosphere: Heavy Metal or Funk or live Flamenco, Nouvelle Cuisine and traditional restaurants, tapas and cocktail bars, and cafes are to be found here. The area is also the gay-friendly quarter of Seville




Roman columns stand at the beginning and end of this large, long avenue that functions as a square.



There is the central, wide part where various activities take place - we witnessed a political rally. 



People sit here, particularly in the evenings, children play, ride their scooters




on either side of this central area are two narrow roads for cars, one of which is just for service venicles - you can barely see it in this picture, but it's between the restaurant chairs and the yellow benches in the middle



and then you have two large areas where the trees are, which are full of bars and restaurants. We came here a few times and loved it.




We sat here and had a cool drink during our first full day in the city







and then moved on. Quite a few jacaranda trees have been planted here, they are still quite young, but they will look majestic when they grow taller




they are my favourite flowering trees.




We continued on our way - this tree lined avenue is 480 metres long




I turned right into a side street and went inside this building as it interested me




It's a secure space for women and girls - I was very pleased to see that.




Eventually we got to the other two columns at the end of this wonderful avenue, and entered the Santa Cruz district.





We came here lots of times in the evenings. At dusk the whole place changes, as people come here to sit, talk, play or just walk








and it gets even busier at night




such a wonderful atmosphere




The bars fill up








This is Tapas, Vinos - we came here three times for our evening meal







This is the queue for the bus - it was always like this, day or evening.




We visited La Macarena one more time, on our last full day, a Sunday. We started from Metropol  Parasol again. This is a queue for the beauty bus of the El Corte Ingles, the department store.




We took a different route this time, much more to the north of the district, had a look at  another church







so much gold!




We must have seen at least five weddings that morning




This part of La Macarena is residential











We came across a craft market
















a typical entrance to a building, with all the tilework




lots of people sitting in the sunshine, resting




We eventually got to the Wall, (Murallas de Sevilla), part of the old defensive wall that used to surround the Old Town. The city has been surrounded by walls since the Roman period, and they were maintained and modified over the years. They were partially demolished after the revolution of 1868. 

The walls originally had 18 gates and four survive today. This is the Puerta de la Macarena.










A busy street on the other side, 




but we stayed on La Macarena side,  walked along it for a while











then retraced our steps




came across yet another wedding







and eventually started walking down Calle Feria again, as we wanted to have another look at the market.




It was packed.




It was lunchtime by then, and people were having drinks




or Sunday lunch.








A bit too frantic for our tastes, so we re-joined Feria




and in one of the side streets, found Quilombo, sat here and had a lovely lunch.



We then walked back to Metropol Parasol and moved on to  Santa Cruz.


Phew! I think this is probably the longest post in this blog. Well done if you managed to finish reading.