Friday, 11 September 2026

Circling the Acropolis


 

A short walk from where the bus drops us off, and we arrive at the Acropolis Museum - this is the old building




and this is the modern one.




It's a wide, tree-lined avenue, with the side of the museum on one side



 
and cafeterias and restaurants on the other




and it's usually busy.




We turn left onto Dionysou Aeropagitou, a pedestrianised avenue, and there's the Acropolis




I've never seen so many people queuing to get into the Acropolis. Athens is becoming a major tourist destination (we noticed this in the winter as well). It used to be that people came to Athens for a day on their way to the islands, but now they stay and sightsee. It's becoming too crowded and it's a worry for all of us.




A busker.




Opposite the Acropolis, the Museum




The entrance, and it does not look too busy




A better view from here




This is one of my favourite houses




We continue on our way




The Spanish Embassy




Some lovely houses around here




Much quieter now, very few people around










This building has a 




little church attached to it.




We arrive at the Odeon  of Herodotus Atticus, a stone Roman theatre, built in 161 AD and renovated in 1950. It was a steep-sloped theatre with a three-story stone front wall and a wooden roof made of expensive cedar of Lebanon timber. It had 33 rows of marble seats in addition to scenery structures 28 metres high. It was used as a venue for music concerts with a capacity of 5,000 and was the largest of its time. It lasted intact until it was destroyed and left in ruins by the Heruli in AD 267.

The audience stands and the stage were restored using Pentelic marble in the 1950s.
Since then it has been the main venue for the Athens Festival which runs every summer. Maria Callas, Frank Sinatra, Elton John, Andrea Bocelli, Cold Play and of course, Mikis Theodorakis, are just a few of the people who have performed here.




I used to come here almost every week when I was a child. My father was an archaeologist and he used to get complimentary tickets for the best seats (second row). So my mother and I used to come all the time, to listen to classical music or to see ancient Greek tragedies. I have been here quite often as an adult. For the next post, I will re-post one of the performances I have been to.




A statue of Maria Callas opposite the steps that lead to the theatre







We continue on our way




and now we can get a view of both the Odeon and the Acropolis




A horse-drawn carriage for the tourists. We saw loads of those in Seville, but they are rare in Athens. I like the horse's hat.










On our left the Kallirroe Fountain. During the reign of the tyrant Peisistratos (6th BC) the growth of the city's population necessitated the construction of a well organised system of fresh water to supply the city's needs. An extremely complex water-providing net was opened, subterrainean to a great extent, divided into several branches, covering a distance of more than 9,000 metres. The fresh water was sourced from the Hymettus mountain and run through sealed clay pipes into the town.




On the Philopapou Hill on our left,  people at the top admiring the views. You can see the Acropolis on one side and the Saronic islands on the other: Aegina, Salamina, Agistri




and taking selfies.




Further down on our left, a glimpse of the Athens Observatory. I saw one of the most memorable exhibitions here at few years ago, The Theatre of Disappearance by Adrian Villar Rojas. You can see it here





On our left, an excavation site. Excavations here revealed a rock-cut, underground chamber, accessible through a door-shaped opening. Inside the chamber a relief was uncovered, chiselled directly on the bedrock, presenting Pan, a naked Nymph and a dog. The presence of this relief led to the identification of this monument as a sanctuary of Pan.




A bit further down, as we approach the built up area, on our left, Thission, the summer cinema




showing films that are decades apart - On the Waterfront, 1954, and the Odyssey, 1926




I love that top balcony




On our right,  we can now get good views of Lycabettus hill




looking closer





an imposing church and the Observatory next to it, seen on our left




looking closer at the Observatory




We have now entered Thission, and this bit of it is full of restaurants, bars and cafeterias,




The new street lights - quite impressive, I would like to see one at night




A lot of street sellers on this bit







a nice park on our left




We have now entered Adrianou Street, which is full of bars and restaurants many of which overlook the Acropolis




A Japanese restaurant - very unusual for Athens, and, particularly in this area










We turn left into a little side street as I want to look at a ceramics shop




typical of the area




a sandal making shop




I have a look at the ceramics




while Ken has a look at the old magazines and books




and then we retrace our steps, back on Adrianou




past Kuzina, one of our favourite restaurants, and the only one that Greek people favour along here




which has views of the Acropolis




A church on our left




The new entrance to the Ancient Agora on our right




The Stoa of Attalos, which was a stoa (covered walkway or portico) inside the Agora, and was built between 159 and 138 BC. The building was reconstructed in the middle 50s and currently houses the Museum of the Ancient Agora.




the Athens/Piraeus train that runs on the edge of the Ancient Agora




on our right, a long string of tavernas




with the odd house in between








On our right we can see Philopapou Hill again, and the people at the top - so, we have come full circle in our circling of the Acropolis




Adrianou gets much narrower here, with buildings on both sides




an ice-cream shop







at the end of Adrianou, the Roman Agora




Here we turn right, past the Museum of Modern Greek Culture




and quite a few tourist shops




another church




I always think it must be really nice sitting here - it looks so cool







and we have come to one of my favourite monuments in this area




Aerides, the Tower of the Winds, also known as the Orologio of Kyristos, is an octagonal Pendelic marble tower in the Roman Agora. It's named after the eight large reliefs of wind gods around its top. It was completed by about 50 BC. It's one of the very small number of buildings from classical antiquity that still stands virtually intact as it has been continuously occupied for a series of different functions.

Formerly topped by a wind vane, it is the only surviving horologium or clock tower from classical antiquity. It also housed a large waterclock and incorporated sundials placed prominently on its exterior faces - people were thus able by using this building to orient themselves in space and time. Architecture, sculpture and the new science were perfectly integrated. It was considered a marvel of technology.

There is so much more to say about this building, so I think that at some stage I will do a separate post on it.




Across the road from Aerides is this old door - I always wonder what it used to be. A church?




We continue on Lyssiou Street




these steps going up to the Acropolis cut across quite a few streets




and they are full of bars and tavernas, with just a narrow gap for people to go up and down




a neo-classical building 




with a statue on the balcony




the Melina Merkouri cafe




with lots more tables on the side street










This place is always full, and it looks so inviting - have not been here for years




We are right in the centre of Plaka now










Popularly known as the Lantern of Demosthenes or Lantern of Diogenes, the Choradig Monument of Lysicrates stands under the Acropolis. It's known as the first use of the Corinthian order on the exterior of a building.  




It has been reproduced widely in modern monuments across the world: the Burns' Monument on Carlton Hill in Edinburgh, on the towers of the North Kirk in Aberdeen,  St Giles Church in Elgin, the Huskisson Memorial st St James Cemetery in Liverpool, the Shrine of Remembrance in Melbourne, the Merchants' Exchange in Philadelphia, to name only a few.








We reach the Arch of Hadrian, most commonly known as Hadrian's Gate, the monumental gateway that spanned an ancient road from the center of Athens, to the complex of structures that include the Temple of Olympian Zeus, which is right behind it.




We turn right on Amalias Avenue to get to the bus stop for our bus, and on our right is Dionysou Aeropagitou Avenue, where the Acropolis Museum is,  which is where we started from - we had come full circle, all around the Acropolis.