The Rotunda in Thessaloniki ...and more

On that particular day, we had art (the Russian Avant-Garde) in the morning and then archaeological sites in the afternoon.

The Arch of Galerius or Kamara, stands on what is now the intersection of Egnatia and D. Gounari streets. It was built in the 4th century AD and is an outstanding example of early Byzantine art and architecture. Galerius, a 4th century Roman emperor, commissioned the arch as part of an imperial precinct linked to his Thessaloniki palace. At some point, the knowledge of why the arch was constructed and who it was dedicated to was lost.

The arch was an octopylon (eight-pillar gateway) forming a triple arch that was built of a rubble masonry core, faced first with brick and then with marble panels with sculptural relief. Only three of the eight pillars have survived.

Two of the pillars retain their sculpted marble slabs, which depict the wars of Galerius against the Sassnids in broadly panegyric terms.

125 metres away from the Arch stands the Rotunda

Like the Arch, the Rotunda is also a 4th century AD monument and an example of early Byzantine art and architecture. The Rotunda was one of the earliest Christian monuments in the Eastern Roman Empire. It has gone through multiple periods of use and modification as a mausoleum, a Christian basilica, a Muslim mosque, and again a Christian church (and archaeological site). A minaret is preserved from its use as a mosque and ancient remains are displayed on its southern site.

The building was used as a church for over 1,200 years until the city was occupied by the Ottomans. In 1590 it was converted into a mosque, and the minaret was added to the sturcture. It was used as a mosque until 1912, when the Greeks liberated the city. The Rotunda is the oldest of Thessaloniki's churches.

We walked through the arched gate

into the grounds

It's a circular, centrally-planned structure with a masonry core and is topped by a dome. It has a diameter of 24.5 m. Its walls are more than 6m thick, which is why is has withstood Thessaloniki's earthquaes, The walls are interrupted by eight rectangular bays, with the west bay forming the entrance. A brick dome, 30m high, crowns the cylindrical structure.

The cupola and barrel vaults were originally entirely covered in mosaics, many of which are now lost.

I loved being in that space. Unlike other archaeological monuments where I go out of intellectual interest, this was different - I walked around and felt at peace. I just loved it.

We went outside to have a look at the archaeological excavations where there are visible architectural building remains associated with the Rotunda's conversion to a Christian church.

and then walked around to the minaret.

I guess this is where the Muslim faithful would wash before entering the Rotunda.

We left the Rotunda and a few metres down, in the middle of a busy street

sits the third of these monumental structures which were connected by a road that run through the arch. 

 

The Palace of Galerius was built to accomodate the emperor and his court during their temporary stay in Thessaloniki. It comprised a courtyard, baths, living quarters and halls of reception.

It's a major site. We did not go in. I think we might have missed out on some great mosaics.

As we left the site, we looked behind us, and could see how how the sites are connected in a straight line.

Around Agia Sofia in Thessaloniki

Just off the International Exhibition Centre in Thessaloniki is Agelaki Avenue, 

with these gorgeous, old olive trees lining one side of the road.

Turning left after a while you find yourself on Alex Svolou Street, a street we got to know quite well since we liked having lunch here.

The street is full of restaurants, cafes and bars.

Eu Mikro, looked particularly appealing and we kept saying we should come here, but we did not manage it somehow

I took this photograph early in the morning - all the other times we went by it was packed: mostly students as the University is near

most places have seating outside and are nicely decorated inside

Yok Balik is the reason why we kept coming back here. It has a lovely, lively atmosphere, and the food is exceptionally good - I became addicted.

The central library is housed here

gorgeous buildings

vibrant and buzzing

We ate at the Chriso Pagoni (Golden Peacock) twice - the food is very good, but not as good as Yok Balik

We sat outside and I was intrigued by this tree - the yellow band on the trunk is to repel insects that cause a disease - I know this because the same yellow bands are used on pine trees in our area in Greece

but it was the condition of the leaves that intrigued me - they have gone all dry and transparent.

It's a gorgeous street

Some intriguing posters

shops that sell vinyl

The remains of the Palace of Galerius (there will be a post on this)

the remains of the Palace and the Rotunda in one straight line

political graffiti to be found everywhere, just like the rest of Greece

lots of bookshops

gorgeous Art Deco building

some new apartment buildings as well

the whole street is dominated by cafes and bars

We got to a square and the end of the street, and facing us, the back of the church of Agia Sofia 

Majestic entrance

With its current structure dating from the 7th century, this is one of the oldest churches in the city still standing today. Its architecture is based on the church of Agia Sofia in Constantinople (Istanbul).

 

Very imposing, very grand.

The mosaic in the dome represents the Ascension with the inscription: 'Ye men of Galilee, why stand ye gazing up into heaven?' The dome is ringed by the figures of all Twelve Apostles, Mary and two angels.

Various avenues lead on from this square

 but on that day we went down Agias Sofias Avenue

Queues outside the Pinochio shop

This is a wide, pedestrian avenue where people shop, wander, window-shop or just relax

Eventually, it leads - where else? - to the sea .