Wednesday 4 October 2023

The village of Halki


The bus deposited us here, and we had less than 2 hours to explore this village.

The village of Halki (Chalki) used to be the capital of the island as well as its main administrative and trade centre. It's located in the valley of Tragea, the principal olive cultivation area of the Cyclades. It's speculated that Halki's name is derived from a family of bronze smiths who were settled in the region by the Venetians (chalkos in Greek means bronze).

Halki has a long history and the numerous neoclassical houses and buildings are testimony to the wealth and power the village once exerted in the surrounding area. Apart from the old mansions and the picturesque churches, the village itself has colourful alleys that give visitors the sense that they have somehow gone back in time. Many well preserved houses, Venetian towers and Byzantine churches can be found in the area.




Halki was the first village we visited on that day, so it was relatively early and lots of cafes and tavernas had not opened yet. 










Cobbled narrow streets



We walked down the main street which is the centre of the village in terms of cafes and tavernas








it leads to the main square, where most of social life is conducted.




The square is very cool as it's shadowed by a huge, majestic plane tree.







Even though it was early morning, the spit in one of the tavernas was turning 








Narrow, cobbled alleyways as in every Greek village







some imposing houses




and some lovely gardens







with wells




and some sleepy inhabitants.










A wonderful, sheltered, cool sitting area in this house.




We wanted to see the Byzantine church of Agios Georgios Diasoritis  which is outside the village




the path that leads there was very pleasing




We came across this little church




ah! these arches




but we knew it was not the one we were after so we continued




down the path




yellow grass and olive trees on our left. The olive grove surrounds the village.








old olive trees have such amazing trunks














Mount Zas in the distance




and here's the church




It is speculated that the church was constructed upon the remains of an ancient temple. The structure dates back to the 11th century. 





Its architectural style is considered quite rare for Naxos, as it is a Byzantine edifice that appertains to the cruciform genre with symmetric lines and a dome.




Unfortunately, the church was closed when we visited. It was meant to open at 11:00 but by then we were on the bus on the way to the next village. It's a real shame as the interior is meant to be awe-inspiring, full of well-preserved frescoes.




So, after a while we headed back to the village












I wanted to have a look at Fish and Olive, a ceramics shop, but was not allowed in because even though the shop is quite large, there were already two customers in there, and the shop assistant could not cope with more than two people in the shop. I patiently waited outside for quite a while, and tried to get in when one of the people left, but was told that no, there was still a customer in there. Very odd. I eventually got in, had a look, was horrified by the prices which were exorbitant, laughed at the stickers on the pieces that said 'collector's item' for just normal studio pots, and left. I had wasted ten precious minutes of our time in Halki.




We stopped at Naxia Natura




that sells local produce like herbs, olives, jams, citron products




admired the neo-classical buildings







not neo-classical maybe, but certainly cute





and some of the old doors




This shop is a marble workshop and they sell copies of Cycladic art, but also some of their own creations




so we had a look inside







The chair made me laugh.





A little further down the road, the 17th century Barozzi Tower,





 a striking remnant of the island's lengthy occupation by the Venetians. 




It's apparently still privately owned so we could not go in and have a look.




Our last stop was the Citron distillery housed in the Vallindra mansion.




We entered the enclosed courtyard of the mansion




It's quite interesting seeing what these grand houses look like on the inside





We had a good look 








We were given a sample of Citron liqueur to taste and then it was time for us to catch our bus.




As were waiting at the bus stop I popped into this shop




that sold, amongst other things, some studio ceramics







including these lovely raku pieces.


 

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