Monday, 27 October 2025

Kouvelles

The house my mother bought in Evia was in Kouvelles, a small village 3km from Nea Styra and 5.5km from Styra. It nestles between the two villages. Kouvelles is a very small, traditional village - it's so small that there's no amenities there, no shop, no cafe, nothing, just the houses, a church and the ruins of an olive oil mill. 

Unfortunately, I have no photographs of our house. The man who bought the house had it demolished and built a new, two-storey house, a house that is a bit too modern for the village. 

We took a taxi to the village, wandered around, then walked back to Nea Styra. So many memories, some heartache, a very emotional experience.




The taxi left us at a cross roads on top of the hill, at the end of the village 




by this house, the last of the village.









We stopped to take in the views




North



East




South




All these houses are to the north of where ours was




I am recording all of them, because this post is a memory record for me













I like the round extension










We had reached the spot just above where our house used to be, so this is the view we had from our terraces and garden. 

Our house was old, after she bought it my mother discovered that her great grandfather had lived there - an incredible coincidence.




Stopped for the views again




This is going to be a long post, but I need to record as much as possible





Walked down this path




First sighting of the new house on the plot where ours was




the side of the house




The house is on a very steep hill. When we lived there bushes kept the earth in place but when the council cemented the road (they did not use tarmac but cement) the bushes were taken down and our house was in danger of sliding down the hill - my mum had to have this wall built to protect the house and garden.




On our way we stopped at our neighbour's house. Sophia was our closest neighbour and she'd had a very difficult life.




But, now the house is abandoned. I hope that Sophia has gone to live with her daughter




The yard where they would sit and where she would do all her cooking preparations





This outhouse is where the oven was and where she would bake the week's bread every Monday




The stairs to the roof where they would dry all sorts of things, tomatoes, raisins, fruit




a fuller picture of the house




and the views




In order to get a view of the front of the house we had to walk down this path - it's very steep and horrid to climb. We all remember the time when we were doing some work on the house and Ken walked up this path with 50 kg of cement on his shoulder!




Halfway down we saw some sheep and stopped - they must be our other neighbour's (across the stream from us) Aristos, who is a shepherd







And there it is. You can see how steep that path is








A crossroads here - behind us the stream, on our right the path to the west side of the village where Aristos' house is, and in front of us, the road that leads to the coast and Nea Styra. 



The path it's just earth, leaves and twigs and things, and I remember how by the time we got to the main road that leads to the coast and Nea Styra our feet and legs would be covered in dust - it was awful. We used to do that walk four times a day, to the beach and back, then in the evenings to Nea Styra and back. Eventually we got a motorbike and that made things easier.

Most of the road to the coast has been tarmacked now, but not this bit in the village - this does not make sense, I don't know what the Council were thinking, but there you go...




The best view of the house so far.

Our house used to be at the back of the plot so that we had the garden facing us. The garden was on two levels; the first level consisted of a veranda, a mulberry tree, then the path that lead to the bathroom, the sheds and the front gate; the lower level was where the kitchen was, then a terrace, followed by another terrace with a huge mulberry tree which is where we sat for shade, and then the garden. 




We started walking




I turned round and said goodbye to the house. So many memories. So much life lived there. It wasn't easy, living with an outside toilet, it was hard keeping the house clean, and the 3km walk to Nea Styra four times a day got tiresome, but we had great times here, as well as really difficult, hard ones.




We started walking in earnest, the dried up river bed on our left





plane trees 




houses on our right




a pomegranate tree leaning on this fence




You see these everywhere in Greece - they are often on sights where someone died and in a lot of them you can light a candle




olive groves on our right




and fields




and more houses



This is new - a little footbridge over the river bed




leading




to a house




We had reached the end of the village, and saw this sign: a taverna in the village? We had to go and investigate




so we took the path on our right that leads to the west side of the village




the old fountain which I presume must have been the only, or one of the few sources of water in the village, and where I imagine people would meet up to talk and exchange news







Bourgainvillea inside a garden










good views as we were getting higher



We had a chat with this lady. I asked her about the sign for a taverna, and she said that it did not last long - maybe a year, and then it shut. So, there's still nothing in the village and things will continue this way if the Council build roads all around it but not inside the village itself.




We stopped again to admire the views




zoomed in and there it was, the house, again




We retraced our steps, 




got to the main road, and the ruins of the old olive oil mill




I looked through one of the windows and it's all overgrown




On the road again leading to Nea Styra




the odd house on our right




the river bed on our left.





This unfinished house was half the size when we used to come here, and was even then unfinished. The only livable bit was the cellar where people lived. We would walk back, after midnight having had quite a few drinks, and say 'oh! look, the cellar people, they are still awake'. So this became the 'cellar people'. And even though they have added bits, it's still unfinished.




A cross roads, but we continued straight ahead




I stopped to look at these, took one with me, put it on the table in our hotel room and forgot about it




four days later, it had opened







A blackberry bush - I did not know that blackberries grew in Greece




the new football pitch for kids to play




I remember this rock - it looked very imposing at midnight in the dark while we walked with just our torch to show us the way




a few houses scattered about




a lamb jumped in front of us, and then scared run off




rhe riverbed on our left and the view beyond




We had reached the main road that leads down to Nea Styra, or up the hills to Styra.




Looking back towards Kouvelles








A few minutes and we entered Nea Styra




the cafeterias




the empty beach (all of this is really buzzing in the summer)




 and the port.




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