Showing posts with label Cyclades. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cyclades. Show all posts

Monday, 19 September 2016

Staying and eating and a bit of shopping in Adamas in Milos

 
As I started writing this post I realised that I did not take any photographs of the place where we stayed in Adamas in Milos. It was a guest house, what they call in Greece 'rooms'. It consists of four three-storey buildings built in the traditional Cycladic style. Each floor has one or two rooms and each building has its own outdoor winding staircase. It was very comfortable, our room was large, with basic kitchen facilities and our own small balcony.
 



I did take some pictures of the garden at night though



 
which was delightful and very welcoming when we got back each night. 




In my previous post I wrote about how we spent most days exploring the island, but then would come back to spend the evenings in Adamas. Our evenings would start here where we would have pre-dinner ouzos.




Comfortable seats, not too many people, and right by the sea - what more could one want?





It was delightful




sitting in the shade of these trees which are called almyres in Greek, which translates as the 'salty ones'.





They only grow by the sea and in a lot of cases you can see the roots right inside the sea water.





The views were fantastic




We would watch the sunset,




the way the light changed at dusk





and then, the first lights that came on the boats as evening set in.







We had lunch at one of the group of tavernas near our 'rooms' on our first day which was a disaster: the food was awful.  We later found out that it was the worst of that group of 6 tavernas. Bad luck on the first day! We then discovered this little gem, O Mikros Apoplous.




We were the only customers on our first day of eating here because it was 4:00 and most people had eaten and left.





Most of the time it was packed, and unless we booked we could not find a table before 10:30 in the evening. The food was outstanding, with the freshest ingredients and an imaginative, experimental chef. And it was ridiculously cheap. We ate here every evening we spent in Adamas.




The tables and chairs were traditional Greek taverna ones, except for this lot, an example of the care and attention to detail that the owners bestowed on this place.





As with our ouzo place, the views were great. 
 
 
 
 
This was the second best taverna in Adamas. The best one according to the locals is called O Hamos! (note the exclamation mark), translated as Mayhem, and it was mayhem indeed. Apparently you had to queue on the main road into Adamas for one to two hours to get a table, it was so good. We decided not to go there for two reasons: it was out of  town,
 
 
 
 
and we did not fancy the walk there and back, particularly since it would probably involve queueing. Secondly, it was set on the main road, and we prefer having sea views. Maybe we missed out, but we were happy with our decision.
 
 
 

We didn't look at the shops much, but I liked this one, Bottiglia, in honour of the Italians, the largest ethnic group holidaying on the island, I presume




it sold nuts, dried fruit, spoon sweets




and booze.





This was the patisserie par excellence,




with an amazing range of pastries, jams, spoon sweets and condiments, including the local tomato paste used as a dip which is to die for




We enjoyed having a look here.




This display is of the local spoon sweet, called koufeto.





Koufeta (the plural) are sugared almonds given to guests at weddings and christenings.






(I've re-posted this image for easy access). In Milos however, they also make a spoon sweet made from the flesh of the white pumpkin in this photograph, then they add almonds, and it's the traditional sweet served in weddings. I tried some in the taverna in  Palaiolohori (post to follow) and it is lovely indeed.

 


This souvlaki place was always busy, and we were tempted to go there





as it looked very inviting, but no sea views, so that was that.




I will finish on a negative note. I needed to buy something from a pharmacy and unfortunately we chose this one, in the center of the town, and the prices were outrageous - double what we would pay in Athens. Shame on you G.S. Martakis, cashing in on the tourists in such an outrageous manner!

There is another pharmacy in the town but we discovered that later.


 

Saturday, 17 September 2016

Adamas in Milos

 
We came back from the island of Milos on Wednesday, having spent a week there.
 
 
 
One of the first things we saw when we got off the boat was this:
 
 
 
 
 
the plaque reads: Milos sighed and called out: 'Mother' and Crete answered: 'I am here, daughter' , by G. Saridakis.
 
We were intrigued.
 
Adamas or Adamantas (meaning diamond) is the main harbour town of Milos. Refugees from Crete who fled the island to escape Ottoman rule, established the town of Adamas in the years between 1824 and 1830. The ties with Crete remain strong to this day.
 
 
 
 
 
It's a classic Cycladic town with white-washed houses, dominated by the Holy Trinity Church which dates back to the 17th century. 




Detail of Cycladic architecture




A modern take of the traditional Cycladic house




A windmill that was very near where we were staying.




The centre of the town is full of cafeterias, restaurants and shops and was very busy.





We were not expecting to see so many tourists in mid-September but the town was teeming with mainly Italians, but also French and Greek holiday makers.






The centre was too commercialised and busy for us





but we discovered a group of tavernas on the edge of the town, very near where we were staying and this is where we spent most of our time.





Those tavernas are by the sea






affording delightful views of the whole bay,





the boats that were moored there,





the mountains across the bay,





little fishing boats,
 


 


and huge expanses of water.





Bliss!





Like most islands in the Cyclades, Milos is rocky and quite barren during the summer, but next to the place where we were staying was this field full of these purple flowers




looking closer.





We were intrigued by this boat as we had never seen one like it before. Were these funnels? We later found out they were loading cranes.




During one of his morning walks Ken saw the boat anchored next to the loading platform you can see in the distance and we think that what they were loading was cement from the nearby cement works which are situated just outside the town.





The town is famous for its healing springs and people go to the baths to enjoy the health benefits afforded by the waters.





The baths were unfortunately closed both times we tried to visit but I have to say, we did not try very hard - we were always on our way to somewhere else.






Near the baths is a small bay within the large bay of Adamas





with a small beach


 


and geese that are very vocal.
 
 
 


This is also where the air-raid shelter that the German occupiers forced the Greek population of the town to build to protect them from British bombs during WWII but this will be the subject of a different post.
 
 
 


The town has a fantastic bus service and most days we took advantage of this and travelled all around the island





but Adamas was our base, the place we would return to





and we spent most evenings here





One of the things I really liked about Milos is that the majority of the boats were of a modest size - none of the big yachts, rich men's playthings, testimonies of the widening gap between rich and poor, that you see in a lot of other Greek islands.