Saturday 17 August 2024

Acropolis, Thiseio, Plaka



We fancied a walk in Athens and some lunch. So we took the metro to the Acropolis stop



lots of ancient ceramics on display there


and some sculptures from the east pediment of the Parthenon.



We emerged outside the Acropolis museum by the cafeterias on the other side of the road


it was heaving.



We started walking along the Irodou tou Attikou avenue which is pedestrianised




there are always buskers here, but this time it was a guy playing beautifully an instrument I had not seen before. I asked him what it was and he said 'timbalo'. I have searched google and cannot find timbalo so maybe I misheard










The Acropolis on our right







and the entrance to the Acropolis museum on our left.




Next to the museum, one of my favourite buildings in Athens and one of the few Art Deco ones that are left




detail



Some nice buildings along here







Much quieter now, less people, as we had moved away from the tourist sites








First sighting of the Herodus Atticus Roman amphitheatre - have seen so many plays and concerts here




and now a view of both the theatre and the Acropolis




opposite the theatre, a statue of Maria Callas as she performed here so often - even though I think that the theatre in Epidaurus was her preferred venue




the sculptor is by Aphrodite Lite




a curve on the road and it changes to Apostolou Paulou




there's lots of antiquities everywhere here







Through the opening in the rock, archaeologists found an underground chamber. On one of the walls was a relief chiselled on the bedrock, presenting Pan, a naked nymph and a dog. Archaeologists surmised that this was an unknown, not reported by any ancient writer, sanctuary of Pan.  The cult of Pan in caves is apparently well documented.




We had now entered the district of Thiseio. The outdoor cinema




The Lycabettus hill in the distance




zooming in




The church of St Marina and next to it the National Observatory. If you look closely at the church you will see on its left, the original small chapel that was carved in the rock. Inside it was covered with numerous wall paintings. It is now a baptistery. The main church was built in 1924, a four-nave basilica with a massive dome, made in a Byzantine style.




We were now entering the area of the cafeterias










and moving towards Thiseio square




Adrianou Street which is full of restaurants, cafes and bars




stalls that sell jewellery and antiques




one of our favourite restaurants, Kuzina




empty because it was still too early




views of the Acropolis



a church








even though Kuzina was empty, the tourist restaurants were packed







We were now in the district of Plaka








I realised that I have never been inside this old Byzantine church which was converted into a mosque when the Turks occupied Greece for 400 years - this is something that needs to be remedied





another view of the church, with ancient collumns all around it, as the ancient Agora is very near here




Aerides, the Tower of the Winds, one of my favourite ancient monuments, probably because it's one of the very small number of buildings from classical antiquity that still stands virtually intact. It's an octagonal Pentelic marble tower in the middle of the Roman Agora. It's got its name because of the eight large reliefs of wind gods around its top. Its date is uncertain but it was completed about 50 BC.




Some nice tavernas






before we got to the one we were heading for




the Old Fisherman's Tavern




We discovered this one last year. Even though it's in the middle of Plaka, an area where tourists flock because of the Acropolis, it's an old taverna, around 100 years old and it has retained its character and the quality of the food




We had an absolutely delicious lunch




and then moved on




lovely basil plants in their pots




Another nice taverna




Very cosy




lovely narrow streets




and now we had entered the centre of the tourist area










the display of bottles in this bar is quite amazing




it's all bars, cafes and restaurants around here







 and then it was time to get our bus back home.




2 comments:

  1. Wow. Another great blogpost Eirene.

    The instrument was a "cimbalom".
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62x1HkiaWQA

    That Byzantine church looks incredible. I have been reading a lot about Byzantine art (and watched Andrew graham-Dixon's documentary) and I was surprised to discover the conversion of The Hagia Sophia in Constantinople from Christianity to Islam. I would have assumed that both religions would have got rid of the old order and started afresh and build something "new" ... but, in fact, they re-used the old religious buildings. Having said that, most (if not all) of what we regard as Christian cathedrals and architecture derives from the commensurate pagan beliefs. What - in anything - can be said to be truly original?

    I have to visit the Acropolis some day soon.

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    Replies
    1. Thanks, and thanks for the cimbalom.

      It's true, churches and mosques kept being converted back and forth. It's one of religious Greeks' greatest sorrow that Agia Sofia was converted into a mosque. That is something they can't get over.

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