A Place Called Space: Hydra

Wednesday 21 August 2024

Hydra - the waterfront

We went to Hydra for five days at the end of June. This Flying Cat was the fastest way to get there

Across the way from where we were queueing, a mural by iNo. To see more of his work go here , here , here

We arrived at Hydra port, I put my case down for a minute, and I immediately get a visitor. Who? A cat, of course, this is Hydra after all

Hydra is one of the Saronic islands separated from the Peloponnese by a narrow strip of water. In ancient times the island was known as Hydrea, a reference to the natural springs there. Unfortunately however, the island now is almost dry. Water gets imported by boat from the mainland. Many local people store winter rainfall in cisterns beneath their houses to use later.

The dominant geographic features of Hydra are its rocky hillsides. On 21 June 2024, the only pine forest on the island was burned. The fire was caused by fireworks (during a heatwave, may I add) launched from a yacht. Thirteen people were arrested.

There is one main town, known simply as Hydra port. It consists of a crescent-shaped harbour, around which is centred a strand of restaurants, shops, market and galleries that cater for tourists and locals. Steep stone streets lead up and outward from the harbour area.

Wheeled venicles are not permitted on the island, including but not limited to cars, motorcycles, scooters, bicyles and e-bikes. Rubbish trucks and a fire engine are the only motor vehicles. Horses, mules and donkeys, and water taxis provide public transportation. The inhabited area, however, is so compact that most people walk everywhere.

All the building are old and traditional - no new build is allowed on the island. I don't know for sure, but I would say that maybe, nothing has been built for 100 years? Richard Branson tried everything he could to get building permission to build a resort - not in the town, but away, somewhere in the wilderness - and permission was refused.

There are shops on the waterfront

and plenty of bars/cafeterias

which are always packed

and they all have views to the sea and the harbour

The metal bars you see are for holding up the awnings which are so essential as it gets very hot

The Clock cafeteria named after the clock tower of the cathedral which dominates the waterfront

Once a women-only monastery, the cathedral used to be a crucial meet-up spot for liberation fighters during the Greek War of Independence from the Turks.

The church is a three-aisle basilica hosting a large octagonal dome in its center, built in the style of Byzantine monasteries of the time.

The exterior space hosts the tomb of navy hero Lazaros Koundouriotis, the richest sea captain on Hydra, who gave his entire fortune to support the Greek War of Independence.

the hills behind

There are also some tavernas at the front - this is Piato, we had lunch here a few times

Donkeys and mules are essential on this island: they are used to transport goods - water, supplies for the restaurants, building materials, luggage, everything really and tourists also use them for rides.

We calculated this was our eigth visit to the island - we love it. On previous visits Ken used to go for walks early in the morning before I got up. He has told me that the waterfront is packed with donkeys early in the morning as the goods boats arrive with supplies for the island. By 9:00 when people start to surface, everything has been cleared away, everything clean, and there's just the few remaining, waiting for hire.

Dusk is particularly beautiful here as everything turns golden

the awnings are pulled back from the cafeterias and there is a new openness about the place.

Evenings are very busy as everyone who was away on the beaches is back, and they come to the waterfront to sit in a bar or to eat in a taverna. In front of this bank is a favourite place for children to play and they do so until the early hours of the morning - among the visitors all ages keep the same hours here